Monthly Archives: June 2009

Ode to franchises of yesteryear

royrogersREVPeople have strong feelings about their favorite dishes from restaurant chains. I am thankful to all those who poured their hearts out on the subject on Jane & Michael Stern’s ever-fascinating Roadfood forums. I have excerpted the following wistful memories from “Long-gone regional franchises” which took on a life of its own and ran for years. After each snippet is the pertinent chain restaurant.

— The burgers were awesome, the onion rings superb and the soda cold. [Charco’s]

— Oh, those hot dogs steamed in beer. [Lums]

— Loved those frosty mugs of root beer and Big Boy hamburgers! [A&W]

— I went for the Ollie Burger. They bought the sauce from “Ollie’s Trolley.” [Lums]

— Shrimp salad. Chili spaghetti size. Navy bean soup. [Bob’s Big Boy]

— Frothy orange drinks and orange chili dogs. [Orange Julius]

— Tuesday night 10-cent “Coney Island Dogs.” [A&W]

— Orange colored cheese on their cheeseburgers, not the pale yellow stuff of today. [Wetson’s]

king'sFoodHostsign— The Cheese Frenchies were unique. [King’s Food Host]

— They also had a Tuna Frenchie, a Hot Dog Frenchie. [King’s Food Host]

— Greasy fish and plank-style chips. [Arthur Treacher’s]

— Orange drink with pulp in it. Tuna sandwiches. What fast food chain would have a tuna sandwich today? [Chock Full O’Nuts]

— How exotic it was to have a sandwich on a bagel. [Bagel Nosh]

— Good hot dogs. Never touched, cooks used plastic gloves. [Chock Full O’Nuts]

— My first straight cut fry. [Wetson’s]

— I remember eating and loving my first Apple Fritter there! [Hamburg Heaven]

— Coffee and Apple Fritters (hush-puppy shaped apples in dough, deep-fried and powdered sugar coated). [Dutch Pantry]

bobsbigboyREV— Pickles, diced onion, relish, mustard, ketchup and mayo were all available. [25 Cent Hamburger]

— Yummmm. A cheeseburger with ham and barbecue sauce. [Roy Rogers]

— Broasted chicken and french fries with a sweet sauce to die for. [Arctic Circle]

— I can remember stopping in for a soft drink and a basket of crumbs. [Squire Jacks]

— Ketchup was free. The fries weren’t like the “wavy,” half-fried or quick fried potatoes of today’s ilk. [Toot ‘n Tell]

— I haven’t had the heart to stop in and see if they still had Strawberry Pie. [Big Boy]

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Chuck wagon-ing

chuckwagoncafe333Who was first to realize that they could cover bad plaster on their ceilings and walls with canvas and call their restaurant a covered wagon or a chuck wagon? The idea seems to have  struck initially in the 1930s, at least that’s when the first Covered Wagon restaurant I’ve found dates from. It was in the Old West – no, make that Minneapolis, with a second in St. Paul. Red checkered tablecloths covered the tables and  in the 195os the female waitstaff wore long calico dresses with aprons, a fact I know thanks to the well-illustrated book Minnesota Eats Out. There was also a Covered Wagon in Chicago in the 1940s, presumably under different ownership but with the same tablecloths.

ED'schuckwagon1The wagon-esque theme caught on big during the 1950s, inspired partly by TV westerns and  partly by the fame of Las Vegas chuck wagon buffets which provided grub for gamblers from midnight ‘til dawn. If not for Vegas envy, why else would there have been one in Miami Beach in 1955? Apparently seeing no local cuisine worth merchandising, restaurateurs there chose from a grab bag of themes such as Smorgs, Polynesian, and Ken’s Pancake Parade. (“Grandma’s Kitchen” was the town’s most venerable eating establishment at the time.)

Cuisine of choice in a chuck wagon? It hardly seems necessary to mention that it was steak. With cocktails. In 1956 the Highland Ranch Wagon, in Oakland CA, offered an All You Can Eat Prime Rib special, with the opportunity to “Create Your Own Salad” for only $2.25.

dillywagon334Around 1960 a Potsdam NY man got the idea of franchising Dilly Wagons as a way to market his hot sauce. The first franchisees were in Vermont (pictured), a region where he was no doubt correct, as his 1961 advertisement said, that the wagon was the “most eye-catching structure ever seen on the highway.”

Chuck wagons continued through the 1960s and 1970s, with names such as the Chuck Wagon Sandwich-teria (Appleton WI), the Wagon Wheel (many places), and the Fiesta Chuck Wagon (Chicago area). Chuck wagon restaurants live on today, many having become buffet-style eateries where children are welcome.

© Jan Whitaker, 2009

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Taste of a decade: 1940s restaurants

DCcafeteria1943During the war (1941-1945) the creation of 17 million new jobs finally pulls the economy out of the Depression. Millions of married women enter the labor force. The demand for restaurant meals escalates, increasing from a pre-war level of 20 million meals served per day to over 60 million. The combination of increased restaurant patronage with labor shortages, government-ordered price freezes, and rationing of basic foods puts restaurants in a squeeze. With gasoline rationing, many roadside cafes and hamburger stands close.

For a time after the war, rationing continues and wholesale prices stay high but patronage falls off as women leave jobs and return to the kitchen. Trained restaurant personnel are in short supply. Restaurants take advantage of food service methods and materials developed for the armed services. The frozen food industry supplies restaurants with fish, French fries, and baked goods. Boil-in bags of pre-cooked entrees become available. Fast food assembly lines and serving techniques used by the military are transferred to commercial establishments.

Highlights

1940 Based on how many restaurant tablecloths have numbers scribbled on them, executives of the National Restaurant Association reason that mealtime deals are being made and that business is finally bouncing back from the Great Depression.

toffenetti3321941 When the restaurant in the French pavilion at the New York World’s Fair closes, its head Henri Soulé decides he will not return to a Paris occupied by Germans. He and ten waiters remain in New York and open Le Pavillon. Columnist Lucius Beebe declares its cuisine “absolutely faultless,” with prices “of positively Cartier proportions.” – Chicago cafeteria operator Dario Toffenetti, who also had a successful run at the Fair, decides to open a cafeteria in Times Square.

1942 According an official of the National Restaurant Association, nearly one tenth of the 1,183,073 employees and proprietors in the U.S. restaurant business are in California.

1943 Decreeing that patrons will not need to turn in ration coupons for restaurant meals, Washington makes a fateful decision that will fill restaurants to the bursting point. In Chicago, restaurants in the “Loop” experience nearly a 25% increase over the year before, while in New York City patronage doubles and earlier seatings must be devised.

1943 Food imports cease and Chinese restaurants cannot get bamboo shoots. They substitute snow peas, now grown in California and Florida. Because of restrictions, restaurants of all kinds leave cakes unfrosted and substitute honey and molasses for sugar. Instead of beef, lamb, and pork, vegetable plates, fish, omelets, spaghetti, and salad bowls fill menus.

1944 In Reno, Nevada, the White House offers a menu with many fish, seafood, and poultry selections, including lobster, crab legs, frog legs, oysters, fried prawns, brook trout, guinea hen, squab, pheasant, sweetbreads, turkey, duckling, and chicken a la king.

schrafftsrockefellerctr19481946 Like health departments all across the country, NYC begins a crack down on unsanitary conditions in restaurants, a problem that worsened with skeleton crews and extended mealtimes during wartime. An official says that of five inspections he witnessed only a Schrafft’s (shown here: Schrafft’s at Rockefeller Center) could be pronounced “sanitary and clean.”

1947 The Raytheon Corporation, maker of radar systems and components for the military, teams with General Electric to introduce the first microwave oven, the Radarange. Not available for home use initially, it is rented to hotels and restaurants for $5 a day.

1947 After numerous Afro-Americans are refused service in Bullocks department store tea room in Los Angeles, a group sponsored by C.O.R.E. stages a sit-in. Later a supportive white veteran publishes a letter to the editor of a paper declaring that since black soldiers regarded it as their duty to protect him from the “enemy abroad” during wartime, he now feels it is his duty “to protect them from the enemy at home.”

1948 An advice column tells girls to let their date handle all restaurant transactions, including complaints or questions about overcharges. “The girl does not intrude or ask, later, who won the argument,” advises the columnist. – In Chicago, a year-long trade school program in professional cooking enrolls veterans to help relieve the city’s acute chef shortage.

howardjohnsons1949 Howard Johnson’s, the country’s largest restaurant chain, reports a record volume of business for the year. HoJos, which has not yet spread farther west than Fort Wayne IN, plans a move into California.

Read about other decades: 1800 to 1810; 1810 to 1820; 1820 to 1830; 1860 to 1870; 1890 to 1900; 1900 to 1910; 1920 to 1930; 1930 to 1940; 1950 to 1960; 1960 to 1970; 1970 to 1980

© Jan Whitaker, 2009

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Just ‘cause it looks bad doesn’t mean it’s good

undergdGourmetREVNot many people get as excited as I do about books of obsolete restaurant reviews. I especially like The New Orleans Underground Gourmet. In the 1973 edition reviewer Richard H. Collin zapped a few well-known tourist places as well as some less expensive restaurants which had “little or nothing to recommend them” in order to “spare the reader’s time and stomach.” He not only performed a service but produced enjoyable reading for anyone inclined to find humor in bad reviews.

Thank you, Richard H. Collin, for writing honestly instead of turning out “publicity puffs.”

Please note that this post is not meant to suggest or imply anything at all about any currently operating restaurants and certainly not about New Orleans restaurants in general.

The Court of Two Sisters – “The food ranges from horrible to inedible. The restaurant relies on the fame of New Orleans cooking and the beauty of the French Quarter to perpetuate nothing less than a systematic outrage against all who enter its doors.”Court2Sisters331

Napoleon Restaurant – “The menu is pseudo-French with parenthetical notes after specialties saying ‘Try me.’ … On a recent visit a special treat was the addition of canned fruit cocktail served in the wineglass with the St-Emilion ordered for dinner. More fruit cocktail later turned up on a main-dish plate of gray tough veal. Astonishing!”

Marco Polo Restaurant – “A combination of the worst of two cuisines that deserve better: Italian and Chinese. The food is equally bad from either menu. Poor Marco Polo! Little did he dream on his return from Italy from China in 1295 that someone would build him a monument like this in 20th century New Orleans.”

Pete’s Spaghetti House – “A strong contender for the worst-food-in-New-Orleans award. Steak in a garlic butter sauce (raw chopped garlic and butter) and spaghetti imprisoned under a heavy red sauce are equally atrocious.”

Ben’s Pizza – “Ben is the king of prefab pizza, turning out more of the horrible little things than anyone else in town with a whole bank of miniature heating ovens. Is it better to eat these pizzas quickly before they become unglued or to let them cool, put them aside, and pick up a hamburger on the way home?”

The Smokehouse – “This is a strong contender for the title of Worst Restaurant in New Orleans. For years the Smokehouse has been giving barbecue a terrible name in the city, with its miserable mystery meat and serve-yourself sauce in tiny paper containers. You probably won’t ever taste worse barbecue, and you can have all the joy of taking it to the table yourself and figuring out how many of the little paper cups of sauce will obliterate the taste of the meat.”

Carlos Restaurant – “Slices of packaged white bread, margarine, cans of condensed milk on the table, and a luncheon special that is sold out by 1 P.M. are examples of why not every restaurant in New Orleans that looks bad is good.”

© Jan Whitaker, 2009

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