Truckstops

truckstop1943vachonIt seems that everyone has heard that truck drivers know all the best places to eat along the highway. [John Vachon, Farm Security Administration photo]

It also seems that no one believes it and never has. I suspect that the rumor was created by magazine writers so that they could debunk it. For instance, a writer in 1951 described the belief as “one of the most insidious myths in the folklore of American travel.” Anyone who is gullible enough to follow a truck to a restaurant or diner, he wrote, can expect to end up with “an acute case of gastritis and an awesome respect for the incredible powers of survival exhibited by the U.S. truck driver.”

truckstopAlbanyFew truck drivers have claimed to know the best places to eat. For drivers of 18-wheelers, eating, like everything on the job, has to fit into a punishing schedule if he/she wants to make money. About the only places a driver can stop are those with diesel fuel, big parking lots, and handy locations. Everything else is secondary, including food, which leads to heavy use of antacids and sentiments such as “I wouldn’t feed some truck stop food to a dog.”

Another aspect of restaurant-ing in trucker world is a breakdown of meal categories. Meals become interchangeable and can take place at any hour in a revolving day and night work schedule. Is 3 a.m. breakfast, lunch, or dinner time?

TruckStopGoldenGrill

Reputedly truckstop patrons might encounter fluffy biscuits and fresh vegetables now and then, but I have the sense they were/are the exception. Overall, accounts point to dismal food choices. One of the worst examples was given in a 1962 story that described deep-fried chicken with a coating of cracker crumbs: “You strike a chicken leg and the crust falls away in a curved sheet to disclose a sight best forgotten.”

Although drivers would have been wise to follow the advice to “Never order anything fried at a truckstop,” many plunged ahead with chicken-fried steak smothered in cream gravy. Along with bacon and eggs and hash browns, chicken-fried steak held a high place on truckstop menus. Does it still?

TruckStopFreeportIL

Occasionally truckstop restaurants bought locally and did their own baking, though you can bet that most of the time drivers ate the same fare they hauled in their refrigerated trucks: frozen food. Nonetheless, some stops were known for their specialties. A 1969 guidebook recognized the 350 best truckstop restaurants, among them The Platter Restaurant in the Bosselman Truck Plaza near North Platte, Nebraska, that featured a parchment menu with catfish and “pastel fruit plates”; a New Mexico stop offering Mexican food; and a New Jersey truck plaza with a Ranch Hand Special of three eggs, three pancakes, and two ham steaks, all for $1.75 in 1970.

Earlier, in the 1930s and 1940s when long-haul trucking became established, truckers traveled on state roads and stopped at now-nostalgic though often mediocre “mom and pop” cafes. But with construction of interstate highways and vastly more trucks on the road by the 1960s, their limited hours and small parking lots could not handle demand. Roadside restaurants grew into full-service truck plazas, complete with motels, stores, laundromats, and 24-hour restaurants.

truckstophalf-wayWaddyKY

But whether eating took place in a small stand-alone café or a 200-seat restaurant in a 14-acre plaza, three constants held true. Waitresses had to be friendly and food had to be inexpensive and plentiful. The third? Coffee had to be strong. In truck driver slang, a restaurant was a “coffee pot” and coffee was “diesel fuel.”

Truckstop eateries have made up a significant part of the country’s restaurant industry. In 1977 Restaurant Hospitality magazine listed the Ohio 70-37 truckstop in Hebron OH as one of the biggest grossing independent restaurants in the U.S, despite its low check average of just $1.14 and the fact that all its revenue derived from food sales. (Needless to say, cocktails and 80,000 lb trucks are a bad combination.) According to Ron Ziegler, former Nixon press secretary and then-president of the National Association of Truckstop Operators, in 1986 truckstops were surpassed only by fast food chains as “the largest feeders of the United States.”

© Jan Whitaker, 2014

7 Comments

Filed under roadside restaurants

7 responses to “Truckstops

  1. I’ve been driving for far more than my 35 legal years and I remember many mom and pop truckstops/restaurants that I would take over any of these chains that you most likely are truly talking about…places that in some cases had almost zero car parking…and yes fried chicken, chicken fried steak, barbq, local caught fish but in Alaska the truckstops were actually somebody’s house that had large dining rooms and road kill though it was what ever was hunted or bought from hunters…some of these cafes doubled as trading posts more than a convenience stores…sometimes even gun stores …they saw an opportunity to work at home…even the mom pop operations usually had their living space real near the restaurant and they had pride in their menu…some people played down the food fare because it didn’t cost what they thought it should or taste like fine French cooking…it’s not what it was intended to do it was comfort food…and it filled you up…I ate steak most times, but pinto beans, potato soup, beef stew, home made apple butter with home made yeast rolls. I remember some of the best restaurant meals at places that I stopped at and I’m second generation t/d it is a shame that so many mom/pops are gone, or there is not a much pride in the menu or prep but the same with most restaurants out there now…why do you think more and more drivers are cooking on the truck or bringing from home now…food costs can break a company driver much less a o/o. We do what we have to survive…

  2. Gary Gillman

    Jack Kerouac had numerous pieces on diners or cafeterias. At least one was a truck stop or at least described a trucker walking in. The best one IMO is where he is describing a harried waitress at a diner at a bus station. I think this one is in his travel and memoir collection, Lonesome Traveller.

    I liked especially the picture of the Half-Way House with the two red trucks. Those older generation cabs, especially the one on the right, have a certain sadness to them. The colouring of the picture reminds me of 1950’s school texts, very evocative.

    Gary

  3. As ever, great post! Fried eggs, hashbrowns, toast, and gravy . . . 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Heaven!!

  4. There is a memorable chapter about a truck stop in John Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath, providing a fictional account of the perspectives of the diners and operators.

  5. Nice piece, Jan…..thanks.

  6. Thomas Byg

    Pink panty Junction, on the way to Chico…all the amenities a driver could ever need for himself or his rig…

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