The Shircliffe menu collection

Arnold ShircliffeAlmostTremontHouseBillofFareArnold Shircliffe spent his life in the catering trade, working in almost every branch of it. He held jobs in railroad dining cars, the Army, hotels, clubs, and restaurants. He began as supervisor of a dining car in 1902, remaining in that occupation for a couple of decades before becoming catering manager of the Edgewater Beach Hotel in Chicago. While there he published the Edgewater Beach Hotel Salad Book in 1926. Around 1936 he became manager of the restaurant in Chicago’s Wrigley Building, then known as Grayling’s, a position he held until his death in 1952.

By 1928 he had amassed an impressive collection of cook books that included a first edition of Hannah Glasse’s The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy published in London in 1747. Somewhat later he began to collect menus.

In 1954 Arnold’s son Harold auctioned his father’s collection which by then was vast and focused mainly on antique cook books. It also included what was described in the auction catalog of the Parke-Bernet Galleries in NYC as “the Pride and Joy of His Life,” about 14,000 menus. The catalog has been digitized as part of the Hathi Trust and can be viewed in its entirety.

I have been able to find only two auction records from the sale of the 697 lots in the Shircliffe auction. Mrs. Glasse’s folio-edition book went for $300. The sum is equivalent to several thousand dollars today but it strikes me as very low. Another rarity, William Turner’s A New Boke of the Natures and Properties of All Wines That Are Commonly Used Here in England, published in 1568, brought $500.

GlasseArtofCookery

The menus were grouped in lots numbered 354, 420-422, and 470-473. I find #354 quite fascinating. It is described as a Horn Book Menu made of wood, almost 8 inches tall and 3 inches wide, with a handle and a manuscript menu labeled “The Carte of the Palais Royal Dinner,” presumed to be English from the 19th century. In a 1943 note, Arnold wrote about a horn book he displayed at a culinary exhibit put on by the Societe Culinaire Philanthropique de New York at the Hotel Commodore. He said that horn books were originally worn around children’s waists and used for studying the ABCs, prayers, etc. Then, he wrote, “The model of the horn book or paddle was taken up by the restaurateurs and they used same as a menu – when it was issued to the waiter, his name was placed upon it; this hung from the waiter’s side in many restaurants and the menu was read to the guest. The menu or horn book was charged to the waiter, and when he left the service or was discharged, his name was scratched off and the name of the new waiter placed on same.”

ArnoldShircliffeTheRainbowNYC1838The largest auction lot of menus was #470 which held an estimated 10,000 items, many from 19th-century American hotels. In it was a tavern broadside from 1790 showing the set price for “the best dinner,” but the oldest true bill of fare, from The Rainbow in NYC, was dated 1838.

In another annotation for the exhibition of the Societe Culinaire Philanthropique Arnold explained that the Tremont House in Boston was one of the first to issue written menus. He added, “The earliest hotel menu that I have is dated 1825.” No menu from a date this early appeared in the list of highlighted items in lot #470, however there was a menu from the Tremont House dated August 25, 1844, that was similar to that of May 1844 shown above.

In 1955 Arnold’s son donated 10,000 menus to the New York Historical Society. A short time later the Historical Society put them on display with the bill of fare from The Rainbow included. This leads me to believe that it was lot #470 that Harold Shircliffe donated. The Historical Society’s notes on the Shircliffe Menu Collection say only that “The core of the collection was assembled by Arnold Shircliffe but has been added to since its donation.” I can’t help but wonder if lot #470 had failed to receive any acceptable bids — or any bids at all – and that was the reason for the donation.

The NYHS menu collection is viewable at the Historical Society’s Patricia D. Klingenstein Library on a walk-in basis (registration with a photo ID required). An electronic database of what is contained in the collection is available at the library.

© Jan Whitaker, 2013

7 Comments

Filed under history, restaurants

7 responses to “The Shircliffe menu collection

  1. Jan, your post brings new meaning to the phrase “once in a lifetime opportunity.” Even if I had known about this auction at the time, it seems doubtful that my third grade teacher would have let me out of class, or for that matter, my parents would have lent me the money, to bid on some of these lots.

    • Henry, that’s a shame — because you would have been an excellent curator. And think what an investment it would have been! I really wish you had acquired the horn book menu holder because you could write about it on your blog and I could see just what it looked like!

  2. Gary Gillman

    Excellent indeed, what an interesting person Shircliffe must have been to have amassed all that. Surely it was rare to combine an active working life in catering and hospitality and yet have the kind of scholarly and social history interests he had. Great menu, too, from old Boston. Leg of mutton, pig’s feet broiled, 1807 Symington Madeira, “absynthe” and Poughkeepsie Ale! Not to mention Washington Tarts.

    Gary

    P.S. Good to know though that 90% of the food menu and a good part still of the liquor one are still made or available, it gives a sense of continuity. That is what I get from menus of the past, a lot has changed, but a lot hasn’t.

  3. majskyking

    Nice piece.

    The word “wood” was mentioned and that recalled to mind a restaurant whose servers brought the menu to the table …. a wooden plank with entrees shown on the plank in chalk, I believe, “specials” and prices.

    My synapses are not synapping very well today and I need some help with regard to the restaurant’s name. Believe it could have been Cap’n Jack’s in Sunset Beach, California. I went to school with Jack (Haley) in Seal Beach and Huntington Beach. He’s deceased, so can’t ask him. The restaurant’s still there and run by a son. I should call and ask him if he recalls wooden menus.

    There may have been other restaurants that did the same thing….surely saves money (and Jack Haley was a thrifty sort!) on printed menus that must be changed with every new entree or price increase.

    Bob

    • I don’t know about Cap’n Jack’s but quite a few restaurants have used wooden menus. Usually they have the menu printed on them. I haven’t seen one with chalk. A couple of California places that used wooden menus were Grison’s in San Francisco, and Tip’s, an LA pancake house with several locations.

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